Val Formazza is the last valley before Switzerland, a couple of hours from where Riccardo grew up. Stone and wood villages, a dialect that sounds almost German, and very few tourists.
Its symbol is the Cascata del Toce, one of the highest waterfalls in the Alps. The water is used for hydroelectric power, so on most days it’s a trickle; on its open days in summer, it roars.
“The Italy nobody puts on a postcard. Yet.”
Above it, trails climb to high lakes and old stone walls with views that make you forget you’re still in Italy. Bring the dog. We did.

