We had planned a clear day and a view to the sea. Etna had other plans: at two thousand metres the cloud came down, and the world shrank to black sand, silence and wind.
It was the strangest, most beautiful hour of the trip. No horizon, no crowds, only the warm ground under our feet reminding us that the mountain is very much alive.
“Sometimes the best view is the one you don’t get.”
Go with a local guide, take a jacket even in August, and don’t be disappointed by the weather. On a volcano, the weather is part of the show.

