The Amalfi Coast is famous for a reason, and by midday everyone knows it: buses on the coastal road, queues for the boats, a thousand phones pointed at the same view.
Set an alarm. At dawn Positano is pastel and silent, the fishermen are pulling in their boats and the only sound is a broom on a terrace. You’ll have the beach, the stairs and the light almost to yourself.
“The same view, without the thousand phones.”
Then go up while it’s still cool: the Path of the Gods, high above the sea, is at its best in the early morning. By the time the crowds arrive, you’ll be having breakfast with a view.

